Jerusalem is not a beautiful place. It is odd, true: not a city all at once, but one scattered from one hilltop to the next, as if each were a little kingdom. But kingdom of what? It is semi-arid sheep country, or so it seemed to me, built in the hills not for its fertility or beauty but for its centrality to the Promised Land, and the ability to defend itself from countless marauders. Where is this Fertile Crescent so proclaimed in all our history classes since grade four?
It is found “down” from Jerusalem, as they say, as most of Israel is down in elevation from Jerusalem, first in its lush, semi-tropical coast, second in the temperate area around the Sea of Galilee, and third, in the river-fed belt of fertility of the upper Jordan valley.
And then there is the rest down below.
Down the Jordan, nature becomes hostile. The desiccation starts not too far south of Galilee, but really kicks into gear at Jericho, the oldest continuously occupied city in the world (10,000 years. Compare that to Milwaukee). Below that is only bad goat country if there is no irrigation, and below that is much worse: the dead zone of the Dead Sea. Here starts the Wilderness of John the Baptist, of Jesus’s forty days’ fast, that land of locusts and sparse honey where the prophets went to find God in His purest form, or rather where they sought God after their own self-purification far from the distractions of the world. There, the tourist can now go to the barren hills of rock to view the brine-choked lake that shines like an eerie blue eye in calm, and reeks brackish gray in storm, standing out against the desolation of the desert as one crying out in the wilderness.
It was there that a group of Jewish purists called the Essenes– fanatics to many – chose to settle some 150 years or so before Christ, there in the dry hills overlooking the Dead Sea, not to flourish as the Mormons did, but to drift away into God’s arms through the strict righteousness of their laws. They built aqueducts to fill cisterns to quench their thirst and to provide water for ritual baths of purification during the long dry months. They lived in a series of caves, their numbers replenished from the outside, as they had little or no sexual intercourse, like the Christian monks who centuries later would subconsciously follow their rules, rules formed to prepare for the Messiah and the end of the time of darkness. Most of the time the Essenes prayed, and read scripture. And they wrote.
We know of them only because they wrote; they wrote extensively during the last few years of their existence, their lifestyle and many of their lives ended by the Romans in 68 AD. They wrote because they had prophets who knew their time was soon to end, as was Israel’s shortly after with the Jewish rebellion against the Romans that ended tragically at Masada n 70 AD, where at least a million Jews were slaughtered and the others scattered across the earth, not to reform again until 2,000 years later. They copied sacred scripture to preserve them for the end times, then sealed them in jars in the dry cliffs where they lived. And this is where they sat until a shepherd discovered them by accident in 1947, the same year Israel became a nation. Their discovery shocked the scholarly world. In them they found proof of the authenticity of the Old Testament, and proof of the old prophesies, and proof of the existence of the Essenes themselves, the monkish Jews who taught John the Baptist, a man who then went on his way to tie the sandals of his master, Jesus of Nazareth, who then went on to change the world.
We saw their living site above the Dead Sea at Qumran first, and then traveled to Jerusalem to view the recovered scrolls at the Shrine of the Book, a museum dedicated solely to the Essenes and their works. There we read of their history and their purpose and saw the artifacts of their living on display along with pictures of the Qumran site. Then, as we reached the back of the museum, we were presented with the most precious works of all - the scrolls themselves. We found little shreds of them behind glass here and there before we reached a raised rotunda where a large section of the scrolls was wound around a cylinder some eight feet in diameter. Here one can walk around and read what is written if one reads Hebrew, or marvel at their antiquity if one does not.
I do not read Hebrew, so I ended up gawking along with the rest of our group. I noticed how the calligraphy was still sharp amid the creases in the paper and the discoloration, but nothing more until an elderly lady in our group, “B,” gave me a little nudge. “Do you see the faces in the writing?” “Why, no,” I said, looking hard and then squinting. “Where?” “There,” she said, indicating nothing more than the totality of the scrolls. I tried again hard, and then just relaxed and looked again. In that moment I saw them. Dozens if not hundreds of them buried somehow within the etching of Hebraic writing. I pointed this out to another member of our group by my side and she could not see them. “What,” she said almost shrugging, “do you have to squint?”
No, one did not have to squint, as if trying to make out a giraffe in a cloud. The faces were there in the letters as sharp as high-resolution photography. In fact, I tried to reason that they were photos, somehow put in by those who made these copies for the display. Thing is, I found out later that these were originals. The faces in their sharpness were as real as real could be, black and white pictures of narrow-faced men in profile or in frontals, usually pictured from the upper torso through the entire face. They could only be seen in the areas that had creases or discoloration, which comprised about a third of the total, the faces somehow, impossibly formed in the calligraphy itself. I tried to see how this could be, but could not: they were part of the letters but not, as if the letters themselves were only framing the portraits. I tried to imagine them as kitchen “Jesus art,” where jelly stains on a linoleum floor are claimed to be profiles of Jesus or Mary or some saint. These were not. They had eyes, mouths, lips and chins and, with some, facial hair in exact, undeniable detail.
I give the credit first to the Essenes for somehow making this possible, or to God or the Holy Spirit – who am I to say? – but also to B, who was “saved” at a retreat a few years ago and has since become an extremely devout Catholic. Since then, I have found that I often anticipate the sermon that the parish priest will give that weekend, only to find that B has told the same to the priest beforehand. I believe she somehow exudes prophecy that some of us pick up now and then. I think she knows it, at least sometimes. Said she after the other one could not see the faces, “Makes you feel special, doesn’t it?”
Yes it does. But it has not made me any richer or better in any way that I can tell. In fact, some will read this and think I’m deluded or lying. It is not something that I would pray for. The faces have no other purpose for me, I believe, than to underscore what I already know but often – too often – forget: that the world we live in is not the world we normally think we live in. It is full of strange stuff that we cannot explain. It is full of strange stuff that seems to have no importance but to remind us that life is an infinite novelty beyond our greatest thoughts and abilities; that something else is in charge, our lives granted us as a grace, not as a natural right; that we are in the hands of a powerful mystery that can at times be touched lightly by those whose devotion grants them some privilege that might bring us closer to a far greater truth than we know.
What I do know is that something strange happened with those scrolls. Born from the age of Christ, they came out of the same desert where Jesus contemplated and was tempted, where his fast of forty days and nights lead to three years of teaching that influenced the world beyond the wildest of odds. My wonder at the scrolls is tiny in comparison, but both lead us to humility and awe; both lead us to give thanks for the miracle of our present and to pray for our future in a vastness that defies explanation, but frames us like the letters on a scroll.