I was doing it again, for the third time to be exact, and it was hard to fathom why. The annual Walk to Mary, from the church of St Joseph in Norbert College, Green Bay, to the Shrine of Our Lady of Champion, is stated as being 21 miles. It is really 22.5 – and boy, those extra yards are noted towards the end - and it is broken at mile 14 for a bus ride to get past the highway system on the south end of Green Bay. It is very pretty the first 7 miles along the Fox River, not so pretty the next 7, and wide-open corn country the last 7 (or 8 or so), which can be more challenging because there is no cover, none what-so-ever, those last miles. By then, the toll is made vivid – sun burn, dehydration, muscle cramps and blisters, blisters, blisters. You stare ahead down the long road and see no end in sight. It will never end. You cannot believe you are doing it and vow that this will be the last time.
That was me, fer sher. It was worse this time because I was walking with injuries: a healing Achilles tendon, a bad knee from rock jumping in Bosnia-Herzegovina, a touch of sciatica in the left hip, and, worst of all, age. I had recently experienced heart-attack like symptoms which may have been gas but were suspicious enough to cause worry, and I was still recovering ever-so-slowly from the effects of two weeks of bad sleep with travel and inconsistent food.
Oh, we had fun the night before: the barbecue house served great stuff and had a splendid choice of ice-cold drafts. I had two large ones and life couldn’t be better. It was all bon-vivant, even at 5:30 the next morning as we hustled to get in on the preliminaries at St Norbert’s. But at about, oh, mile 7 the reality started to kick in. The rejuvenating energy of the morning coffee was now showing its teeth by turning into jitters, and each mile got longer and longer. Fun became an inconceivable concept. An unwelcome sense of annoyance crept in, old-man stuff that couldn’t be sloughed off. Mild to middling pain, not enough to end the epic but enough to make it miserable, gave me a limp that would drag on for hours. By mile 17, all I could think of was that cold beer; by mile 20, all I could think about was ending the misery before the gathering thunderclouds turned into driving rain and deadly lightning bolts.
At that point, thoughts became different. I really believed that I if I had been struck by lightning, it would be directly from the hand of God, and I would either be given super powers or would rise up, up, up to a martyr’s heavenly reward.
Alas, there was no such luck. Rather, we ended up under the vast tent canopy that had been placed adjacent to the church so that the several thousand walkers could all join in on late-day Saturday mass. We had gotten there so late that there was no time to go to the bathroom or rest on the abundant grass that surrounded the small, unassuming Shrine of Our Lady of Champion. Besides, within 5 minutes of our arrival, the rain began in earnest, coming down in such torrents that at times we could not hear the (very good) singing from within the church.
The wind picked up. It got cold. The mass went on and on as we were made to stand endlessly even as our legs ached, our bodies shivered, and our feet screamed. Then something very odd happened. As I would learn later, I was not the only one affected.
I will not go into the special nature of Our Lady of Champion here in detail, but only relate briefly why this place is special enough to get thousands of people to punish themselves with this long walk.
Adele Brise moved with her family from Belgium to Champion in the mid 1800’s when she was just a child. Shortly after, in 1859, she received a vision of the Virgin and a message telling her to go out and become a teacher to children so that they might read the Gospel. She did, becoming a nun and forming with others a group that educated the immigrant youngsters in the area. With funds gathered by them, they had a chapel and dormitory built on 5 acres of land in rural Champion (ie, the middle of nowhere, which it still is). On October 8th of 1871, the lumbered-over area on the other side of the bay caught fire (at the same time as the infamous Chicago fire). The fire was so large and hot that coals flew across the bay and engulfed the Champion area in flames. With even the creeks boiling from the heat, people took refuge within the 5 acres of the chapel. Next day, everything was destroyed right up to the border of those 5 acres. 3,000 people in total were killed in the fire, including all the animals left behind by those who sought refuge. Everything and everyone were saved, however, within the chapel boundary.
In 2010, the Catholic Church proclaimed the site “worthy of veneration.” In 2016, it was officially designated a national shrine to Mary, the only one in the United States. To commemorate the former, the Walk to Mary was started in 2013. 300 people attended the first; 6,000 the last. This year, the name of the shrine was changed from “Our Lady of Good Hope” to “The National Shine of Our Lady of Champion.”
As said, with the exception of the portion of the old chapel that is still at the site, there is nothing spectacular about this place physically. The small church that had replaced the chapel was expanded by a basic pre-fab construction, and the nicest of the few other buildings there might well be the gift shop. Several acres are dedicated to a walking rosary that is bucolic and peaceful, but certainly not special enough to merit a several-hour drive. Nothing, really, in the physical nature of the Shrine merits a long drive, let alone a grueling, all-day walk. Yet thousands take it up year after year in increasing numbers.
I had not really thought about the oddness of the whole enterprise during the walk, but as I stood freezing under the fraying tent trying to hear through the rain and thunder, the “why” of it landed on me unprovoked with stunning clarity.
It came with a vision of Heaven. As I try to write about it, the facts I thought I had known now have become scrambled, but it went something like this: without losing vision of what was all about me – the tent, the thousands of people, the pouring rain, the chill wind – I had a broad interior vision of a landscape lit up in white crystal. Trees, grass, telephone poles – both those within and outside my mind (or so I recall) - were lit with a radiance that sang joy, that gave joy, that promised in the fact of its very being an endless joy. There was nothing in this world that could compete with this joy. It was self-sufficient and complete. It was a true happy place. I have no idea how long it lasted, although it did not seem endless, and I have no idea how it came and how it went. It was and then it became a memory all in its own mysterious way.
Holy Toledo! What the…? The pain of standing in the cold was still there, but now it was more of a trifle than a misery. The mass went on, the Gospel was read, and then the bishop of the diocese, Bishop Ricken, began his sermon. After a few opening words, he presented us with a question: “This place is suffused with the holiness of Our Lady and her Son. You have sacrificed so much of yourself because of this. Many of you have come with requests. Tell me, how many of you have already had your requests fulfilled? Please stand up if you have.”
I did come with requests, as most did, and none of them were fulfilled as far as I knew, except for the fact that I had made the full walk in spite of difficulties. But then it occurred to me that I was wrong – that I did indeed have my greatest request fulfilled. What was the other stuff - my interior verbal requests for this or that – compared to what I had received? I had learned with certainty that everything else was small potatoes compared to the vision of heaven. Not unimportant, but small. This knowledge alone placed the cornerstone of faith within my grasp.
Of course I stood up. At least 20 others did as well. Apparently I was not alone with my vision. Then the bishop asked, “And who here expects their requests to be fulfilled in the future?” Practically everyone else stood up. Said the bishop after this, “See the power of this holy site? It is true. We know it is true” (all quotes paraphrased).
He is right. There is something really special about this unassuming place where so many were miraculously saved during the fire, and which was miraculously rescued from obscurity 140 years later. How do these things happen, these visions, these miracles? What is this hand that guides us through epics and eras and tragedies and histories? What is this unimaginably vast power that actually has the time to care for and call to each of us?
After mass, we all turned to find one of the dozens of buses standing nearby to take us back to the parking lots or hotels where we had left our cars. I pulled my raincoat closer, but quickly found that it was unnecessary. Just as the rain had waited for mass to start, we found that it had stopped suddenly right at its end. From there, all was fair sailing into the night.